Ancil Nance Photographs
Mount Hood Oregon summit glacier climbing winter storm
Writing

A Near Disaster

A climbing accident on Mount Hood

In the summer of 1970 I was climbing on the south face of Mount Hood with two friends when the weather changed suddenly. What had been a clear morning became a whiteout within an hour.

We were on the upper mountain, above the bergschrund, when the storm hit. Visibility dropped to a few feet. We roped up and began descending by compass bearing, moving slowly and carefully.

I lost my Rollei 35 camera in the descent — it slipped from my pack and disappeared into the snow. I was too focused on getting down safely to mourn it at the time.

We made it down safely, arriving at Timberline Lodge cold and shaken. The mountain had reminded us, as it periodically does, that it is not a place to be taken lightly.

— Ancil Nance All Writing